The morning of the May 19th I was on the back of a 
motorbike, speeding along the coastal road in Ko Samui (an island off the east coast in Thailand) heading towards the airport. The driver was managing to navigate the bike while clutching my 16.5 kilo backpack between his legs. This in combination with the screeching, clearly worn out breaks, didn't bother me nearly as much as the fact that I'd overslept and was going to miss my 6:00 AM flight to Bangkok. At the same time I was watching the most spectacular sunrise, the sun was 100% full, like a full moon and had just risen above the line of the ocean. I won't forget this moment or the sound of the jet engine of my plane as it took off from the airport several kilometers down the road. I was sad to leave. My last ditch effort to change my flight to Delhi had been unsuccessful. Maybe I'd subconsciously decided to miss this flight. But, a 1500 Baht later (not a small sum for me at this stage) the situation was rectified and I was on the next flight to Bangkok to leave Thailand and head for the strange, intimidating and foreign - India.
motorbike, speeding along the coastal road in Ko Samui (an island off the east coast in Thailand) heading towards the airport. The driver was managing to navigate the bike while clutching my 16.5 kilo backpack between his legs. This in combination with the screeching, clearly worn out breaks, didn't bother me nearly as much as the fact that I'd overslept and was going to miss my 6:00 AM flight to Bangkok. At the same time I was watching the most spectacular sunrise, the sun was 100% full, like a full moon and had just risen above the line of the ocean. I won't forget this moment or the sound of the jet engine of my plane as it took off from the airport several kilometers down the road. I was sad to leave. My last ditch effort to change my flight to Delhi had been unsuccessful. Maybe I'd subconsciously decided to miss this flight. But, a 1500 Baht later (not a small sum for me at this stage) the situation was rectified and I was on the next flight to Bangkok to leave Thailand and head for the strange, intimidating and foreign - India.My last few days in Thailand were spent on Ko Samui. Not so much by choice but more the circumstance of late travel plans. I arrived there from Hat Thien on Ko Pangan where I'd been staying at The Sanctuary http://www.thesantuary-kpg.com/ - it was a super-hard adjustment coming from one beach to another. McDonald's, Starbucks, huge upmarket resorts, motorbikes, car horns, everyone trying to sell you something - it was just so different than what I had just left. SO DIFFERENT. And it's so hard to keep adjusting. I suppose that this recent adjustment or transition is a good example of the way that I've felt my entire time in Southeast Asia.
It's been a consistent transition, my stomach just churning the entire time, not literally, but I've
felt this upheaval of my spirit. It's been emotionally challenging in many ways: Meeting people and developing relationships which were deeper than I could have ever thought possible and then saying good bye to them - way to soon. Realizing that this is more than a vacation and actually my life (for now) and that I just cannot GO GO GO, take a photo then jet along to another spot. I think I've become a bit of the "lazy traveller" that I once mocked. . . but the biggest emotional challenge of it all has been seeing different cultures, those with the most horrible poverty, and my feelings towards it all. Having sadness over begging children quickly turn to pure irritation really starts to make you think about yourself. THEN there's been the physical side - I've been lucky not to have any serious illnesses, but I would be lying if I didn't admit that being bitten, burned and bruised along the way hasn't taken it's tole. Motorbikes have certainly been my biggest enemy. My fight with these evil forms of transport culminated the night before I left, when I was hit by one. Yes, actually knocked down onto the ground. I stood up to discover that I was not bleeding and generally fine, other than a bit shocked. I went to ask the driver if he was ok, just to see him get up, pick up he turned over bike and drive off. No sorry. No eye contact. He just left. Hmmm.
I'm feeling for the first time that I'm starting to change, to feel differently about travelling, why I'm travelling and how I want to travel. I'm feeling differently about me. For all of the ups and downs, I was still VERY sad to leave Thailand behind. Just like the friends I've met along the way, it was way to soon.
By now you might be reading this thinking, enough of the deep inner thought. So, I'll try and summarize my time in each spot.
Bangkok, Thailand
Love and kisses to Suzanne for living there and introducing me to Darren and his lovely
boyfriend Toey when they came for a visit San Francisco awhile back! While I did arrive to Bangkok on my own--quickly transporting myself to the backpackers enclave of Kho Shan Road - although that reality did not last for long. My time in Bangkok was special because I was able to see it from so many different angles - thanks to Darren. My first day was spent solo, exploring the usual "one day in Bangkok" destinations like the weekend market, the Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha. Then I was taken in by Darren and treated to amazing meals at his restaurant Eat Me: http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/asia/thailand/bangkok/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1154654632862 but spectacular spots all over the city. While dining riverside and enjoying cocktails at the top of hotels was fab - I'd have to say our time together culminated when Toey took us to listen to traditional Issan music and we were the only Farangs in a room of a few hundred Thais.
It's been a consistent transition, my stomach just churning the entire time, not literally, but I've
felt this upheaval of my spirit. It's been emotionally challenging in many ways: Meeting people and developing relationships which were deeper than I could have ever thought possible and then saying good bye to them - way to soon. Realizing that this is more than a vacation and actually my life (for now) and that I just cannot GO GO GO, take a photo then jet along to another spot. I think I've become a bit of the "lazy traveller" that I once mocked. . . but the biggest emotional challenge of it all has been seeing different cultures, those with the most horrible poverty, and my feelings towards it all. Having sadness over begging children quickly turn to pure irritation really starts to make you think about yourself. THEN there's been the physical side - I've been lucky not to have any serious illnesses, but I would be lying if I didn't admit that being bitten, burned and bruised along the way hasn't taken it's tole. Motorbikes have certainly been my biggest enemy. My fight with these evil forms of transport culminated the night before I left, when I was hit by one. Yes, actually knocked down onto the ground. I stood up to discover that I was not bleeding and generally fine, other than a bit shocked. I went to ask the driver if he was ok, just to see him get up, pick up he turned over bike and drive off. No sorry. No eye contact. He just left. Hmmm.I'm feeling for the first time that I'm starting to change, to feel differently about travelling, why I'm travelling and how I want to travel. I'm feeling differently about me. For all of the ups and downs, I was still VERY sad to leave Thailand behind. Just like the friends I've met along the way, it was way to soon.
By now you might be reading this thinking, enough of the deep inner thought. So, I'll try and summarize my time in each spot.
Bangkok, Thailand
Love and kisses to Suzanne for living there and introducing me to Darren and his lovely
boyfriend Toey when they came for a visit San Francisco awhile back! While I did arrive to Bangkok on my own--quickly transporting myself to the backpackers enclave of Kho Shan Road - although that reality did not last for long. My time in Bangkok was special because I was able to see it from so many different angles - thanks to Darren. My first day was spent solo, exploring the usual "one day in Bangkok" destinations like the weekend market, the Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha. Then I was taken in by Darren and treated to amazing meals at his restaurant Eat Me: http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/asia/thailand/bangkok/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1154654632862 but spectacular spots all over the city. While dining riverside and enjoying cocktails at the top of hotels was fab - I'd have to say our time together culminated when Toey took us to listen to traditional Issan music and we were the only Farangs in a room of a few hundred Thais.Chaing Mai, Thailand
Next I took an overnight train to Chaing Mai, where it was hot, hot, hot. I quickly headed off for
a trek into the jungle where I rode an elephant, rafted on a freshly made bamboo raft, and stayed with a hill tribe. The best evening I spent in Chaing Mai was with a novice monk, Ton, I helped him with his English and he helped me to understand mediation and how unfortunate it was for him to be restricted from dinner. As I left the monastery at dusk I met two American university students (they were asking me to fill out a survey about my experience) and after chatting they told me how much they loved Pai and that I had to go. So I went. Although this was not mapped out on my very tight itinerary, for some reason I just went there and it impacted the rest of my trip. Because in Pai I went to a yoga class where I met Lorraine, who I'm still travelling with as I write this.
Next I took an overnight train to Chaing Mai, where it was hot, hot, hot. I quickly headed off for
a trek into the jungle where I rode an elephant, rafted on a freshly made bamboo raft, and stayed with a hill tribe. The best evening I spent in Chaing Mai was with a novice monk, Ton, I helped him with his English and he helped me to understand mediation and how unfortunate it was for him to be restricted from dinner. As I left the monastery at dusk I met two American university students (they were asking me to fill out a survey about my experience) and after chatting they told me how much they loved Pai and that I had to go. So I went. Although this was not mapped out on my very tight itinerary, for some reason I just went there and it impacted the rest of my trip. Because in Pai I went to a yoga class where I met Lorraine, who I'm still travelling with as I write this.Pai, Thailand
This place is kind of travellers mecca, or so the Lonely Planet (aka the bible) says. It seems like
so many people go to visit and never leave. One girl I met dubbed it the Bolder, Colorado of Thailand. Pretty accurate. After visiting for a few days, I met Lorraine during a yoga class. We both agreed that we wanted to continue to go to yoga class, eat well and generally be healthy together. That went well for one afternoon while we zoomed around on her motorbike checking out the beautiful wats, waterfalls and rolling hills. But that evening we saw this guy on the street selling these buckets. . .
This place is kind of travellers mecca, or so the Lonely Planet (aka the bible) says. It seems like
so many people go to visit and never leave. One girl I met dubbed it the Bolder, Colorado of Thailand. Pretty accurate. After visiting for a few days, I met Lorraine during a yoga class. We both agreed that we wanted to continue to go to yoga class, eat well and generally be healthy together. That went well for one afternoon while we zoomed around on her motorbike checking out the beautiful wats, waterfalls and rolling hills. But that evening we saw this guy on the street selling these buckets. . . Luang Prabang, Laos
I think the buckets may have effected Lorraine's ability to say no because it was seemingly easy
to convince her to take a two day boat journey on the Mekong River through Laos to Luang Prabang. The trip was amazing, other than the fact that we were crammed aboard the boat like refugees. Some of my fellow travellers were just piled on top of backpacks in the rear of the boat near the engine room. But, the spectacular mountain tops peeking out from low lying clouds made it all bearable. Luang Prabang was a gorgeous laid back town with a British feel to it. I would go as far to say that it was my favorite town in all of Southeast Asia. The mountains, the markets, the food, all of it. One of my happiest moments was when we climbed down by the river and watched some young boys fishing, other young monks swimming, all while part of the hillside burned away during a controlled fire. It was so peaceful.
I think the buckets may have effected Lorraine's ability to say no because it was seemingly easy
to convince her to take a two day boat journey on the Mekong River through Laos to Luang Prabang. The trip was amazing, other than the fact that we were crammed aboard the boat like refugees. Some of my fellow travellers were just piled on top of backpacks in the rear of the boat near the engine room. But, the spectacular mountain tops peeking out from low lying clouds made it all bearable. Luang Prabang was a gorgeous laid back town with a British feel to it. I would go as far to say that it was my favorite town in all of Southeast Asia. The mountains, the markets, the food, all of it. One of my happiest moments was when we climbed down by the river and watched some young boys fishing, other young monks swimming, all while part of the hillside burned away during a controlled fire. It was so peaceful.Vang Viene, Laos
Next we went to Vang Viene and and tubing down the Mekong river, which involves, in case you
didn't guess, floating down the Mekong river in a big tube. It was so much fun. Jumped off lots of high things and had a few of the infamous beer Laos (because one must sample the local beverage in order to gain a better cultural understanding of the country one is visiting, I'm sure you'll all agree.) All of this in the rain. And some of it in the dark in the rain as we failed to make it all the way to the pull out point during the daylight. Suffice to say that it was an adventure. Other than that more amazing mountain scenery, Vang Viene had a sort of scary traveller vibe going on. Almost every restaurant had a big T.V. showing the Simpson's of Friend's or some other awful American T.V. show. Just imagine these backpackers sitting on the floor watching T.V. for hours. I found it a little sad. Lucky for us we were there during the annual Rocket Festival and so the town was full of locals celebrating by shooting home made rockets in the air in hopes to bring the rain. I told the monks who explained this to me that it was working (it rained the entire time we were there.) The highlight of Vang Viene was certainly the late night part that fellow traveller Colby and I attended. It was all locals celebrating the festival and they totally took us in. They had live music and invited us to dance, gave us sticky rice and of course Beer Lao. A great evening. P.S. This is a photo of where we stayed, one of the brown huts on the left.
Next we went to Vang Viene and and tubing down the Mekong river, which involves, in case you
didn't guess, floating down the Mekong river in a big tube. It was so much fun. Jumped off lots of high things and had a few of the infamous beer Laos (because one must sample the local beverage in order to gain a better cultural understanding of the country one is visiting, I'm sure you'll all agree.) All of this in the rain. And some of it in the dark in the rain as we failed to make it all the way to the pull out point during the daylight. Suffice to say that it was an adventure. Other than that more amazing mountain scenery, Vang Viene had a sort of scary traveller vibe going on. Almost every restaurant had a big T.V. showing the Simpson's of Friend's or some other awful American T.V. show. Just imagine these backpackers sitting on the floor watching T.V. for hours. I found it a little sad. Lucky for us we were there during the annual Rocket Festival and so the town was full of locals celebrating by shooting home made rockets in the air in hopes to bring the rain. I told the monks who explained this to me that it was working (it rained the entire time we were there.) The highlight of Vang Viene was certainly the late night part that fellow traveller Colby and I attended. It was all locals celebrating the festival and they totally took us in. They had live music and invited us to dance, gave us sticky rice and of course Beer Lao. A great evening. P.S. This is a photo of where we stayed, one of the brown huts on the left.Vientene, Laos
What a horrible place. The land of NO ATM's and one Pharmacy. I spent my time there searching for an antibiotic so that the motorbike burn on my leg wouldn't become infected from exposure. My two days here did not include ANY "happy traveller" moments. Enough said. From here I flew to Pnom Phen, Cambodia.
Pnom Phen, Cambodia
It was a soul changing experience to learn about the terror inflicted upon the Cambodian people during Pol Pots regime just 30 years ago. I visited S21 which was the school turned prison where they tortured the Khmer people before taking them to the killing fields. Over 1.7 million Cambodians were murdered. Lots of silence and reflection during this day in Cambodia. I also went to visit the Royal Palace and the National Museum there, both were lovely, but I was mostly just happy to be in a "real" city where they did have ATM's, many pharmacy's and I could shop for a new camera. Oh, I didn't mention that mine took a little swim in the Mekong River during the tubing experience. . .
What a horrible place. The land of NO ATM's and one Pharmacy. I spent my time there searching for an antibiotic so that the motorbike burn on my leg wouldn't become infected from exposure. My two days here did not include ANY "happy traveller" moments. Enough said. From here I flew to Pnom Phen, Cambodia.
Pnom Phen, Cambodia
It was a soul changing experience to learn about the terror inflicted upon the Cambodian people during Pol Pots regime just 30 years ago. I visited S21 which was the school turned prison where they tortured the Khmer people before taking them to the killing fields. Over 1.7 million Cambodians were murdered. Lots of silence and reflection during this day in Cambodia. I also went to visit the Royal Palace and the National Museum there, both were lovely, but I was mostly just happy to be in a "real" city where they did have ATM's, many pharmacy's and I could shop for a new camera. Oh, I didn't mention that mine took a little swim in the Mekong River during the tubing experience. . .
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Angkor Wat at sunrise was too amazing to describe. The temples were just unreal and I was glad that I had made the journey to visit. I spent a lot of time just relaxing and reflecting at each temple.
Other than Angkor Wat, Siem Reap was a lot to handle for me. I was ready to go back to Thailand.
Ko Pangan, Thailand
Ahhhh. Arriving back to Thailand in the Bangkok airport was wonderful! I was so happy to return. It was so funny because just three weeks earlier, arriving in Bangkok had caused me such rear anxiety and now I was thrilled. When I arrived on Ko Pangan Lorraine picked me up on her motorbike and drove me around lost on the island for a bit while I complained. :-) Finally we arrived at the cute little house she had rented a few days earlier. We stayed on the east coast close to Hat Yao. Then we made our was to Hat Rin to experience just a taste of what the full moon party might have offered. All we needed was a taste. Our friend Colby met us at Hat Rin but the next day we were off to The Sanctuary - that I mentioned at the start of this e-mail. I'm still plotting my return.
Alright. There's so much more that I could say, but I hope that paints an accurate picture of these 4 weeks of my life. I think of all of you often and can't wait to hear from each of you. :-)
